Saturday, August 28, 2010

"Haben Sie Ihre Karte?"

My brother and I are 150 kilometers north of Würzburg in the checkout line at “Ratio,” a German bulk grocery supplier much like Costco, and the smiling, middle-aged cashier is asking me for my card. I’m going to pay her with a crisp 100 Euro bill (that’s the one the size of a twin bed sheet, unlike the 50 which is merely the size of a sheet of printer paper), so I politely tell her “Nein” and go back to carefully unfolding the massive bill out of my wallet. “Excuse me, sir, your Ratio card please,” her voice now slightly firmer. Ah, I get it: she wants my savings card so that I can get 1% back on the 79 cent tube of hot mustard at the front the conveyer belt. I express to her in my less-than-perfect German that, although we were drawn to the mega-store by the six flapping banners advertising jaw-dropping daily savings, we’ll forego the few extra cents partially in the name of time, but mostly because neither of us has a Ratio savings card. Thinking that my clarification would suffice, I tell Brant to pull the cart through the aisle to get ready to load up our meager, but carefully selected four days worth of food.

“Entshuldigung mein Herr, in order to shop here, you have to have a card that I can scan to show me that you’re a member. If you don’t have the card, I cannot allow you to purchase this food.” Her explanation is delivered clearly and flatly, almost as if she were an automated voice reciting the oft-repeated spiel. I gulp and look over at Brant for support, but with his eight word German vocabulary he’s blissfully unaware of our newly discovered problem. I’m sure it’s a common problem that with embarrassment comes an instantaneous drop in foreign language confidence, but every time it happens I’m so surprised and it has a way of snowballing on itself – the more embarrassed I get, the less I know how to say. Seeing nowhere else to turn and the line behind us slowly growing, I pocket my dignity and my €100 (which now feels like one of those flags they wav during the National Anthem at the Super Bowl) and barely manage to choke out the three word question to ask the cashier what we should do. Now looking equally as surprised as me, she replies “Eh, keine Ahnung. Das ist so schade, weil Sie so schön eingekauft haben,” which translates literally to “Eh, no idea. This is such a shame because you guys have shopped so beautifully.”

Excuse me while I go on a small aside here. ‘Beautifully’ initially seems like an odd/interesting word to describe our shopping endeavor, but you know what, damn right our work was beautiful! Imagine walking into Costco looking for four days food for two people with very little money – that would be difficult, right? While a German village party might find good use for a 23-kilogram block of cheese and a 20-liter bucket of curry ketchup, such bulk was a bit much for us. When cursory scans down each aisle revealed only items which could be moved using a fork-lift, we had to get clever. While we could find smaller packages of most foods tucked in dark corners, others could only be found in large boxes of 50 or 100 count. However, a quick rip of a large milk box revealed that the smaller liter boxes inside each had their own barcode, which meant they were available for individual retail sale. Or so we hoped. Either way, finding the right items in the right size was no small task, so she didn’t know how dead-on she was to classify our haul as having been “beautifully” gathered.

Back to the predicament at hand: the cashier and I are going back and forth on possible solutions. She asks me if perhaps I’d seen somebody in the store I know from whom I could borrow a Ratio card. “Um, not exactly.” I explain that we aren’t locals and don’t expect to casually bump into acquaintances in a German warehouse outside Frankfurt. Eventually we whittle down the options to two. First, Brant and I can go around the store replacing our bananas and bags of assorted rolls or second, we can just leave the store, pitifully abandoning our caché on the belt unused. Neither option sounds appealing to me, to her, or (as gathered through broken bits of translation) to Brant. At what appeared to be an impasse, our heroine comes to the rescue in the form of another middle-aged, German woman, but this one is a customer (or rather, registered member) instead of employee. She offers us her card and we take it without a moments hesitation. Who knows if she took pity on the two Californians confused by a German system which is in actuality anything but novel, or if perhaps she was thinking: “The faster these fools leave, the faster I can buy my industrial pale of sauerkraut and 64 pack of white bratwurst.” Whatever her motive, we don’t care. We thank her for her humanitarianism and pay for our loot. As we’re finally wheeling our cart to the door, smelling the fresh German air, a shrill “Herren! Herren!!” comes from the Register-of-Shame. What’s that, we forgot our Ratio-sized receipt? How could we?! Our friend the cashier hands us a laser jet printout of our purchase list, an all too fitting end to our experience as German bulk shoppers – a receipt big enough to fill the back of our rented Renault station wagon by itself.

Each day I am in Germany, I realize how humbling it is to wade into a new culture and a new language. There are daily lessons to be learned, new words to be memorized and all of that is to be done without the rest of the world slowing down to accommodate you. At first it’s a shock, but I am slowly catching the hang of it. The challenges teach me to listen, remind me to exercise manners, and force me to always read the fine print, for I never know when they will tell me not to enter a building without a membership card. We’re nearing the car when Brant realizes that we have no knife to cut our hard earned food. “Man,” Brant thinks out loud, “I bet Ratio would have a sweet deal on a kitchen knife.” On second thought, we can just use the car key to cut our tomatoes.

Friday, August 20, 2010

Winning the Lottery

As some of you may well know, air travel for me is anything but a guarantee. Usually my problems are as simple as always being right in front of a teary-eyed, table-tray-slamming baby, or having my luggage lost on five of six plane trips in a summer. Other times there is a miniature hurricane the day I'm supposed to leave and I miss my flight by literally two minutes and am thus forced to spend the next 21 hours in the airport listening to the world's smoothest jazz and bilingual luggage safety announcements rain down on me from the ceiling. This was, in fact, the case when I left Washington DC about a week ago. When I finally made it on the plane back to California, I was surrounded on all sides by cantankerous children - no surprise there.

I can say with the utmost surprise and happiness (while also probably sacrificing my future flying karma) that I ran into no such problems in my trip to Germany. We dropped my brother off at the airport on time, I was able to hang out with college roommate Chris in the few hours before my flight, I, too, made it to the airport on time and checked my bike without issue. When boarding the plane I was a little nervous, for unlike a Southwest flight on which you can intentionally place yourself in a corner by the bathroom to avoid small kids, we had assigned seats, so I had to surrender the pending comfort of my flight to chance. Upon sitting, I closed my eyes for fear of seeing a youth parade traipse into the rows adjacent to me, but lo and behold I was greeted by nothing more than a very friendly young German-American named Karl. We had several very interesting conversations in both German and English and found out quickly that we shared a love for cycling and Freegan-ism (We found out that we had the latter in common when we finished our dinner 'food' and both began politely asking the people around us if they were "going to finish that?" I got greedy and replaced the untouched cheesecake from the Romanian woman two seats to my right with my empty tin only to have to witness her noticeable disappointment upon discovering that her dessert had disappeared during her short trip to the bathroom...that's me building more bad flying karma). What's more, the man to my side opposite Karl quietly got up moments before takeoff and never came back, leaving me ample foot and elbow space, as well as an area to unobtrusively brush all the crumbs off my lap from the four rolls I rescued out of the wasteful hands of my neighbors. All in all, it was a quick and comfortable flight from San Francisco to Düsseldorf, followed by a simple connection to Munich.

When arriving at Munich, I went to the baggage carousel hoping (notice I didn't say expecting) to see my bags waiting for me. You see, this is somewhat of a game for me now after having been on the losing end of the Baggage-Wheel-of-Fortune so many times. But the streak of good luck continued when both my backpack and my over-sized bike box came in safely (although the bike box I had neatly and securely taped in California was now a collection of taped shreds.) Florian and my brother greeted me in the lobby of the airport where they informed me that while waiting they had test-driven a brand new Audi at an airport-hosted promotion event. How two unkempt twenty-something year old buffoons were able to walk straight out of the Bier Garten, into the Audi office and secure a pair of keys is beyond me. Amidst laughs and countless attempts to trip one another, we made our way into the city on the subway, grabbed dinner and checked into our hostel. Battling our mounting jet-lag, my brother and I fell asleep at about 8 pm. He was able to compose himself long enough to shower, brush his teeth and make his bed; I, however, did none of the above. I feel asleep fully clothed, contacts in, bed bare and woke up in the middle of the night to find myself using my brothers dirty jeans as a pillow. Instead of trying to clean myself up, I just shrugged and fell back asleep.

Today we made the two hour drive to the northern part of Bavaria to Florian's parents' house. I've done nothing more than lounge and eat since I've been here, simply relocating myself from one horizontal position to the other. Tomorrow it looks as though there is a chance of productivity, as we are supposed to meet Florian's grandpa on his 1901 era farm to chop wood and I plan on moving my things into mine and Stefan's flat in Würzburg. However, when Flo, Stefan, Brant and I are together the plan is, much like my air travel, anything but a guarantee. We'll see how much actually gets accomplished by the end of the day...

Monday, August 16, 2010

Step One: Get to Germany


So what's the protocol when packing to leave for a year? Looking around at the heinous disaster in my room, it's pretty clear that I have no idea. Should I bring one item of each type of clothing then fill the rest of my backpack with boxers and socks? Probably not. Should I fill my suitcases then use my brother's extra luggage allowance to carry my collection of milk caps? That also seems ill-advised. If there is one thing about packing that I learned from my time living in Spain, it is that the memories we cherish most rarely include details about what we clothes we were wearing or how well our shoes matched our shirts. It's important to be present and open to experience, and that's not something that I can roll up and put at the bottom of my bag. So the rule as of right now, at 2:06 am on the 16th of August, 2010, is to keep it light. Plus I can always steal from Florian when I get there.

I have yet to wrap my mind around the fact that I'm on the precipice of leaving for a year. Having just come back from two of the most challenging, life-changing months of my life working as the Program Director for the NSLC (Nat'l Student Leadership Conference) on Health & Medicine, things still seem a little like a whirlwind. It'll be nice to surrender to the whole process when I get on the plane in two days, because once I cross that threshold there's little I can do to put on the brakes.

Just as a little background to provide this whole thing with some context: I just graduated from UC Davis this June and am taking two years off before I apply to medical school. The first of these years I've decided to spend in Germany, living with Germans, working in the medical field and exploring the culture and language. I will be living in Würzburg, a city of about 150,000 people in the state of Bavaria (the southernmost of 16 states in Germany.) I am rooming with Stefan Walter, the older brother of Florian Walter, a bube I got to know when he did a year-long exchange with my family in 2005-2006. His parents, Erich and Sigi, live about 30 minutes from Würzburg and will serve as my surrogate parents while I'm living in Germany. The final member of the Walter Clan is Benjamin, Flo's eldest brother who lives and studies in Karlsruhe. My plan for the year is to work various internships that the Walter family has so graciously organized for me. At the moment my work situation appears as follows: three months as an intern to the chief of medicine in a hospital in Würzburg, three months as an assistant at St. Martins Schule, a school for developmentally disabled children in Bad Kitzingen and three months in the pediatric office of Herr Unkelbach, a family friend of the Walters. At this point in time I'm not sure how firm these commitments are and every time I try to get information out of Sigi, she invariably tells me that I simply need to show up. How lucky I am to have my own personal planning team.

So that's where I am at the moment - very few expectations, quite a bit of nervousness and two unpacked bags. I know that a lot will change really fast (especially with regards to the bags) leaving me vulnerable and excited. Here's a bon voyage and I will be checking in again very soon from the other side of the globe!